Visit Churchill, Manitoba: The Arctic on a Budget

Happy International Polar Bear Day!! In celebration of this conservation awareness day, perhaps you find yourself planning a trip the Arctic?  Ever considered a visit to Churchill, Manitoba? Have you heard of Churchill, Manitoba? If you are interested in the full Arctic experience ‘on a budget’, we’re going to venture to guess that this is probably your ticket. While ‘budget’ is a relative term here, if you live in North America, it’s the best option there is!

With a [human] population of approximately 900 year round residents, the town is ‘ocean front’, in the low arctic tundra and lies on the border of the boreal forest (58°46′09″N 094°10′09″W). The town is named after John Churchill, the 1st Duke of Marlborough, and governor of the Hudson Bay Company (HBC). HBC is a massive establishment in Canadian history. Established in Churchill soon after the arrival of the first Europeans in the 1600s, HBC based its business largely on fur trades, especially beaver.

Why on Earth Would Someone Go to Churchill, Manitoba?

This meeting of ecosystems makes it an excellent spot for eco-tourists and nature lovers of all ages! It is estimate that 10-12 THOUSAND eco-tourists make their way to Churchill annually. Kat spent a few weeks here over two summers while in University, completing some Artic Ecology course work and absolutely loved it!

The majority of the Churchill coastline is made up of dolomite rock bluffs that line Hudson Bay.  Standing there, water for miles in one direction, tundra and inter-tidal rock beaches in the other.  There are many interesting groundcover including crow berries and willow, as well as some interesting creatures isolated in the small ponds dispersed among the rock bluff.  It’s important to keep a heads up and not wander far as polar bears have been sighted regularly on the bluffs.

The main natural features of the tundra are large collections of hummocks (small humps) across the landscape. At this latitude, you’ll also find ‘permafrost’, a permanent layer of ice that remains below the soil surface year round. If you’re lucky, you’ll get a chance to reach between a couple hummocks and touch it. It’s pretty unreal.

How Does One Get to Churchill, Manitoba?

If you decide to visit Churchill, Manitoba, consider that there are no roads into Churchill. One can arrive into town via flights (Calm Air) and train rides (Via Rail) from Winnipeg to Churchill. While the train ride is nearly a 48 hour endeavor, it is highly recommended for the scenery. Like nothing you’ve ever seen! You’ll even cross another province off your list when it ducks into Saskatchewan for a few hours. The train also makes stops in ‘The Pas’ and ‘Thompson’ along the way.

The flight will get you there in les than two hours but will set you back around $1,000 (CDN). A roundtrip train ticket will cost you less than $500 (CDN). So why not take the scenic route??  The 800+ km travel to northern Manitoba occurs on the Hudson Bay Railway, one of the essential railways in Canada. This railway provides transport within the province for many resources and supplies required for business and survival in northern towns.

Once you arrive, the town is completely walkable. There are cabs, rental cars and tours available if you plan to leave the city limits (which you should!).

[Not so] Fun Fact: The train trip from Winnipeg to Churchill has become increasingly longer over the years due to melting permafrost and shifting tracks.

How’s the Weather?

In Churchill, the joke goes that there are basically two seasons: winter and July. The ice flows melt away in the Bay around mid-June and it starts to snow again in August. Crazy right? Here is what to consider it planning to visit Churchill, Manitoba:

Summer – Windy and overcast, (typical Churchill weather they say), in the 50s
The rest of the year – Windy and overcast day, freezing or colder!

Where to Stay

There are several Inns, motels and BnBs in Churchill proper (even AirBnBs!). Of course, prices vary per season. On average, you’re looking about $100 (CDN) pppn.

While in town, Kat stayed at the Churchill Northern Studies Centre (CNSC), a mere 20 minute ride from the train station. The CNSC is an Arctic research facility established in 1976 (Churchill Rocket Research Range) until it closed in 1984.  Originally built in the 1950s by the Canadian and American military for cold weather training, it served as a defense post for the possible missiles that Russia would launch over the North Pole. 

Located 23 km outside of the town, they provide food, lodging, a library and laboratory to accommodate scientific researchers. They also cater to nation wide university credit courses and serve as an elderhostel. The CNSC also has an EPIC observation deck/bubble for viewing the starry sky or northern lights from a warm seat indoors.

Things To Do in Churchill, Manitoba

First things first, the train station doubles as the Parks Canada  Visitor Center. So be sure to check it out as soon as you arrive into town. This is a great introduction to the local history and should start your visit to Churchill Manitoba on the right foot.

Churchill has some great wildlife to offer, aside from it’s charismatic megafauna. It is after all, the “Polar Bear and Beluga Whale CAPITAL OF THE WORLD”! There are many birds and plants to be found here as well, desolate as it may seem. Artic tern, godwit, tundra swan, ptarmigan, grey jay and osprey to name a few. In the summer you’ll see white coloured moss that resembles the snow that lacks at this time of year. You’ll also catch a glimpse of fireweed in some spots.

Other mammals that may cross your path include Arctic hare, vole, caribou and red fox. More of an aquatic animal nerd? There are zooplankton, algae, leeches, jellyfish, sculpin, starfish, urchins, sea cucumbers, anemones and soft coral here as well! Oh, and did we mention the bugs? That’s right! If you’re planning a trip here in summer, prepare for the swarms. No kidding.

Cape Merry Battery and Prince of Whales Fort

The Cape Merry Battery and Prince of Whales Fort are two monuments that commemorate an 18th century battle which took place between French and English. Settlers for the land and resources on and around the Churchill River partook in this battle.  The two were originally built to establish a fur trading post for the HBC and were designed to accompany one another in the event of a war.  The Battery was named after Captain John Merry, one of the Deputy Governors of the HBC. And the fort in honour of the British royal family. They also serve as a great overlook for any beluga whale activity in the river. (The belugas are most abundant in July and August). 

Fun Fact: here on the Artic circle, the pine trees grow in an odd way, a trend known as krummholz, where the harsh arctic winds cause the pine branches to proliferate only on one side of the trunk. The trees are also dwarfed compared to pines under normal conditions.

Famous Wrecks

The famous shipwreck of Hudson Bay just outside of Churchill is known as the SS Ithaka.  It crashed onto shore during a severe storm in 1961 on its way from Rankin Inlet, NWT to Montreal, QC with a load of nickel.  It is attainable by foot when the tide is out or when the Bay is frozen over.

Then there’s the ‘Miss Piggy‘ plane wreck, sitting on a cliff north of the airport. This cargo aircraft was named for the large load sizes it carried, though on that fateful day in 1945, was reported to be over loaded. No, it isn’t haunted as all crew were reported to have survived but it’s not everyday you get to hike through a plane wreck!

The Northern Lights

Churchill is also one of the top spots for viewing the glorious Northern Lights. Kat’s experience was a beautiful display of completely overwhelming lights. They most seemed to swallow up the night’s sky with its bright greens highlighted by pinks and purples and their fluctuating reflections. The northern lights, also known as aurora borealis, are a visual phenomenon caused by the collision of electrically charged particles with the atoms of the upper atmosphere, mainly oxygen and nitrogen, and is commonly viewed and more brilliant in what is termed the “auroral oval”.  The usual green colour is the energy released as a result from a collision with an oxygen molecule. Tres cool!

Though our experience was in August, the best time of year for Mother Nature’s light show is said to be late November through late March.

Try a Tundra Buggy

How about a ride in a giant white vehicle that looks like a hummer crossed with a school bus? A visit to Churchill, Manitoba isn’t complete without a ride on a Tundra Buggy. The Tundra Buddy Adventure was established over 25 years ago and provides regular everyday people with the chance to get closer than humanly possible to the large animals known as polar bears.  How very efficient that many of the current buggy trails were used for military training during the cold war!

While Kat was visiting, they driver managed to get the Tundra Buggy stuck in the mud (at a 45 degree angle) in an attempt to approach a resting bear!  The polar bear began to vehicle, and though he didn’t seem to pose a threat we were still cautionary in his presence. The bear came within about 8 meters of our vehicle! They offer tours in summer and fall, with October and November as the major bear season months.

How about Kayaking or Snorkeling with Beluga Whales

Though on the pricier side, one of the companies in town offers up a pretty unique, ‘bucket list’ type adventure – snorkeling with beluga whales! They also offer kayaking opportunities as well as several other expeditions. Check out Lazy Bear Expeditions for more information. (P.S. their café is also worth checking out!)

Murals Around Town

There are so many EXCELLENT pieces of art around town and you’ll likely have the time to encounter every one of them! Since visiting in 2006, there look to be several more than Kat initially encountered and they are STUNNING to say the least. Best of all, they are FREE to check out!

polar bear jail (say what?)

On occasion, polar bears are known to wander a little too close to town. Though this behaviour is typically found in the younger bears, the estimated weight of these creatures is 700 pounds. So you can see how this might be problematic. The town has developed a holding facility for any animals that need to be relocated after being captured in town. During capture, the Department of Natural Resources tranquilize the bears to be transferred to the ‘jail’. The bears are tranquilized once again prior to release via helicopter transport to a location away from town.

Meet a Local

While in Churchill, Kat had the opportunity to encounter Myrtle DeMeulies  and hear her share her story “Tales of a Trappers Daughter”, a history lesson of the Métis culture, the most common natives in the local population. The aboriginal peoples known as Métis originated mid 17th century from the marriage of indigenous and euro-American ancestors.

As English speaking Canadians, Metis speak French as a second language and are located mainly in Manitoba.  Their culture is particularly fond of fiddle music and jigging, their most famous dance known as the Red River Jig and they can often be identified by the bright red sash they sport, culturally titled the “ceinture flechée”.  Their most famous ancestor is Louis Riel, a man who led two rebellions in the late 1800s.

On your visit to Churchill, Manitoba, be sure to check out the Eskimo/Itsanitaq Museum in town, where admissions are donation based.  The museum itself possesses some very interesting artifacts from handmade hunting tools and canoes to stone carvings and taxidermic specimen including a walrus, a polar bear and a musk ox. These specimen were great to behold as one would likely not be observing them in their natural habitats during their visit.  As a fan of marine mammals, the preserved narwhal tusks and immense whale vertebrae were amongst Kat’s favourite items on display. 

Before heading home, be sure to swing by the Artic Trading Company for a souvenir or two, or to delight in some of the quirky northern gifts they carry, like a caribou hair sculpture or caribou jerky!

Why Visit Now?

Now, more than ever, Churchill is a location to visit. With climate change on the rise, this ecosystem is changing quicker than previously documented and the natural region that it represents is becoming more and more rare. Whether you decide to make the trip in summer or fall, either seasons is full of opportunities to experience the Arctic. If you’ve been to Churchill, we’d love to hear about your personal experience. We hope to get back some day, before it changes for good.

Want more Churchill? Check out our good friend and fellow blogger Mar’s experience here! For more information, visit Churchill.ca

Would you consider a visit to Churchill, Manitoba?